 Keep your dog busy (and out of trouble) this Summer with these great tips:
#1 - Purchase small "kiddie" pool. Fill it with water for the dogs that like it, sand for the those that prefer to dig. For WATER (skip if your dog loves water and hops right in):
For SAND (skip step one if your dog already loves sand):
#2 - Frozen treats.
#3 - Flirt pole - Flirt poles are a fun way to keep puppies busy. You can use one to tire them out a little before a training session, send the kids outside to play with them and to teach "drop it".
#4 - Mental Stimulation - too hot for a walk? Try using mental games to wear your dog out.
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Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant  I understand that leash pulling is one of the most frustrating challenges many of you face. I happen to LOVE teaching it so I am going to try to explain it from my point of view.
It's important to think about WHY you dog is pulling. This can vary many times during a walk. Is it to sniff a bush, get to another dog or to move faster? Once you define the reason, it's easier to figure out the solution. Let's say there’s a dog across the way and your dog is pulling to meet them. In this case, no matter what your dog is wearing (any type of collar or harness) they will probably STILL PULL. Greeting or reacting to other dogs is one of the main reasons a dog will pull hard on leash. The solution? Teach a really solid "Leave It". This will solve the problem and knowing leave it is an excellent skill for any dog regardless. Let's say your dog is pulling to sniff a bush - you could use leave it OR, as I would recommend, use it as a reward. So, if I am walking a dog and they start to pull towards something like a bush or plant I will say "let's go", turn around and then make a conscious effort to get the dog back to the bush with a loose leash (even if I have to pick up my pace for a moment) as the reward. If you are consistent with this method your dog will learn that they never get what they want when the pull but they do get it when the leash is loose. Sometimes, dogs simply have a faster pace than we do. In this case you can teach "easy" by saying it and rewarding the dog when they slow down and "hurry" by teaching them to step up their pace on command (maybe I should do a video on this!). This way you teach the dog when and where it's necessary for them to slow down but you also speed up for them as a reward too. If your dog pulls on leash simply to forge ahead, that is simple to teach – stop following them. Stop, wait for them to stop pulling into the leash and only move forward when they take the pressure off. If they pull again, turn around, reward the moment they catch up to your side and continue. The first few walks will be frustrating – if you let them be. Otherwise, breathe and laugh thinking “Oh ya! you are just being a happy dog”. Remember, your dog isn’t pulling to make you mad. They are pulling because they have places to be, people to see and lots of things to sniff (so use all of those things as the reward). You can also teach heel and release the dog with an “ok” when they can sniff. I prefer loose leash walking personally but some would rather have their dog closer in. I am happy as long as I’m not being pulled so I reward the times the dog is not pulling, stop or turn around when they are and it ALWAYS resolves. Each dog is different so it may take a couple of walks or a few weeks, depending on the rate at which the dog learns, my commitment to the training and the time we put in. I believe every interaction with a dog should be in the best interest of all involved. I always think about the reasons the dog is "misbehaving" (although to the dog it's not so) and work with that in a way that solves the problem and also supports the dog's well-being. The one thing you will need most of all for this training is patience but once you get the hang of it, you will find it rewarding and fun for both of you. My leash training videos are packed full of tips and tricks to help you and your dog get out and enjoy some great walks together. Guest Blog By Nick Burton, Our Best Doggo  Are you the proud parent of a senior pup? Whether you raised your canine companion from his youth or recently adopted an oldie-but-goodie, there are plenty of ways you can ensure your friend’s golden years are wrapped in love, joy, and comfort. Read on for terrific tips to help you and your older dog make every moment count.
Health and Wellness Aging dogs, just like aging people, tend to experience a decline in health. Sometimes, it happens very gradually, and other times it can occur quite suddenly. For example, older dogs frequently experience what is termed vestibular disease. This issue can quickly impair your dog’s balance, leaving him staggering and disoriented. Sometimes, dogs recover, but other times the effects linger for the rest of your dog’s life. Another common concern is dementia. Your dog might experience symptoms like losing track of where he is in familiar places or more anxiety than in the past, or he might not interact with other pets or people as much as before. There are supplements and behavioral therapies that can help support senior dogs experiencing cognitive issues like dementia, so it’s important to talk with your vet if you suspect your older pup is showing symptoms. These are just a few of the health issues that can affect older dogs. Your veterinarian can diagnose problems as they come along, and will often notice changes in routine exams. With that in mind, it’s important to schedule visits with your vet at least twice a year. The Grey Muzzle Organization explains senior dog exams might include things like diagnostic blood work, vaccines, and dental checks. Senior-Friendly Equipment Ideas Beyond veterinary and medical care, how you support your dog during his golden years can extend into everyday life, such as when your dog has mobility concerns. Equipment can make all the difference in allowing your dog to continue enjoying an active role in family life. For instance, dogs with severe mobility concerns might need a wheelchair. These devices are typically designed to fit your dog’s size and can assist front, back, or both sets of legs. More commonly, dogs with arthritis use dog ramps or steps to climb onto furniture, laps, or into cars. Pet Life Today notes these helpful pieces of equipment come in lightweight, portable options, as well as more substantial styles to leave in place. Just be sure to examine the size and design to match it to your dog’s needs and the space where it will be used. Another concern parents of senior pups experience is how to lift Fido without hurting him. Even if he is normally a floor type of guy, you might need to help him get in and out of the car or up and down steps if he becomes ill or injured. There are lifting harnesses you can purchase to keep on hand, or you can DIY a lifter from a shopping tote in a pinch. Just cut off the two narrow ends and loop the handled sections under your pup’s belly so it supports him fully. Supplements and So Forth One of the many ways dog owners can help their furry friends is with supportive supplements. As VetStreet explains, many of the vitamins, minerals, and other supplements available for senior dogs are potentially helpful, such as probiotics, fatty acids, and glucosamine with chondroitin sulfate. Before you add something to your dog’s health regimen, check in with your vet to ensure the supplement won’t interfere with other therapies. As the proud parent of a senior pup, ensuring your friend’s health and happiness is a top priority. Make sure your dog is getting his medical needs met, check into assistive equipment, and think about supplements that could give him a boost. With your thoughtful choices, your beloved companion will enjoy the love, joy, and comfort he so deserves. Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant  Teaching a dog to come when called requires a good connection between the dog and the human. If your dog is not trained to sit, lay down or stay, I highly recommend you start on those first. Come is more advanced and works best if you have formed a bond through positive reinforcement training ahead of time.
NEVER say the word “come” unless you are 100% sure your dog will succeed. You must train them in a controlled environment, building up to distractions and relishing in all success. If you find yourself saying the command regularly and your dog ignores you, you have basically “ruined” the word and should start with a new one (we recommend “Here”). During training, do not use the word until you have your dog’s attention and are working on it. For the purpose of this blog, I will assume you have not ruined the command and use “Come”.
GAME: Here’s a fun game to play with your dog to reinforce Come. Gather a handful of your dog’s regular kibble. Also gather a small handful of cooked chicken, hot dog or cheese (tiny pieces). Have them together in a bowl. Toss a piece of kibble for your dog. As soon as they return to you give them a piece of the higher value (chicken, hot dog, cheese). This will teach your dog that coming to you is WAY better than leaving. This is a fun game you can play anytime. As your dog is more reliable you can add in the words “good Come!” while they are running back to you. This will help them understand what “Come” means. Tips: Being positive and having exceptional rewards will help your dog to learn and understand that coming to you is wonderful! You want your dog to always feel great about coming when called. NEVER punish your dog after calling them to come to you, even if you are mad. This will damage the command and the last thing you want is a dog that refuses to come when called because they are afraid of the consequence. Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant  I am a big believer in hands-free use when it comes to dogs. The hands-free feature is no doubt convenient and there are many different styles on the market (including ours) that have wonderful reviews and experiences behind them. I have walked and trained dogs this way for years, and find it very beneficial. In this blog, I want to discuss the pros and cons of using a hands-free belt when training, walking, hiking, or jogging with your dog(s). I also want to address some safety concerns.
Hands-free eliminates the urge to jerk on the leash (which I wholeheartedly support), allows the handler to relax both physically and on leash tension, greatly reduces the pressure on the handlers shoulders and back, and frees up our hands for offering rewards, picking up waste, petting our dogs, etc. Having your dog or puppy attached to you is also a great way to work on potty training (which we will cover that in detail in one of our upcoming videos). There are many great reasons to consider hands-free! There has been some debate about the safety of this feature. I understand and completely appreciate this and there are certainly precautions and common sense the MUST be used to avoid problems. Some say that if the dog is attached and pulls hard or quickly, there is a chance you can be pulled off of your feet and possibly even sustain an injury to your back. My personal experience does not support this. I have had major shoulder injuries with hand-held leashes from dogs pulling suddenly, but to date, have not experienced any shoulder or back problems from using hands-free. It seems, for me, that my hips are better able to absorb impact than my arms and shoulders. Also, I am very careful and use common sense anytime I am working with or walking a dog hands-free. I am in no way indicating that it is impossible to become injured if a dog lunges while using hands-free, I am just offering my experience and urging the use of common sense. If your dog is large and/or very strong, lunges, or pulls hard, I would not recommend using a hands-free system. I also wouldn't recommend walking a dog at all if it is pulling or reacting to that degree. Injury is quite possible with these types of dog behaviors, no matter what you are using to walk them. Use our training methods to work with the dog first to eliminate this behavior prior to considering the hands-free feature. That way, you can enjoy your walks and eliminate the risk of injury of any kind whether it be from using a basic leash or hands-free belt. Lunging and pulling dogs present a risk no matter what method you are using. If you have a dog that is small or a larger dog that is trained to not pull hard or lunge quickly and want to enjoy the hands-free experience, here are my recommendations:
Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant  Barking is a natural behavior for dogs, for some breeds more than others. However, barking can be quite irritating. Below are some training tips and information that will help you to teach your dog to be a bit more “quiet”.
It’s important to remember that anytime your dog is doing something that is undesirable, you should offer them a “replacement” behavior. In this article we will be teaching you how to replace your dog’s barking with being quiet. Equally important is to NEVER use a command (in this case quiet) unless you are sure your dog knows the meaning and will successfully complete the request. This takes time and patience but, I assure you, it’s worth it. I will use the example of a Max, the German Shephard, barking in his backyard. I also have a corresponding video showing this training. Max is a “barker”. He listens intently and barks at the noises of other dogs, squirrels, people, etc. Max lives near a busy dog park so this increases his barking behavior. This can be challenging for his family. He also has a habit of barking as soon as they let him out in the morning. He has no care of what time it is and this is disruptive to his neighbors. To help Max: I would advise that they take Max out on leash so they have more control over the situation. I would also recommend that Max’s family have treats (his morning kibble may be used in lieu of treats if this interests him). Then, when Max goes outside quietly, he should be rewarded with a treat paired with the verbal cue of “good quiet”. NOTE: You really can’t reward “quiet” too much in the beginning. The best time to reward Max is when he is relaxed, outback and being quiet. Max should be watched closely for any sign of “interest” in something he might bark at. As soon as Max shows interest (head turning in the direction of the noise, ears perking up, eyes widening, face tensing) he should be redirected. Redirection can be done by making a sound, tossing a ball or a treat. Then, before he has a chance to refocus on the sound, a “good quiet” paired with a treat would be in order. This should continue while he is outside and doing his business. This would need to be repeated many, many times before they could actually ask him to be “quiet” while barking. It takes time for a dog to understand the meaning of a word and it’s important to allow them enough time before expecting them to comply. In the meantime….while they are working with Max and before he really knows what quiet means, I would recommend that if he does bark one or two times they ignore it for now but if he goes into a surge of barking and carrying on, they should immediately take him inside for a short break and start over, being observant to catch it before it gets going. It would be ok to distract Max after a bark or two but important not to REWARD him in order to distract him because they would then be rewarding the bark. IMPORTANT: The moment after a dog exhibits any behavior is the PRIME time to reinforce that behavior. If you offer a reward after your dog barks you will be training them to bark more. A good rule of thumb it to reward what you want more of and ignore what you don’t want. Rewards are essential to dog training and can be tapered down once your dog understands and is doing well. Punishing a dog for barking makes no sense to them, they are simply being a dog and doing what a dog is naturally meant to do. We need to teach them what we want instead of demanding they simply stop doing doggy stuff. Check out our video section to see the video that pairs with this post and for more helpful tools and training techniques.  Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant The best way to solve undesirable dog behavior is by teaching the dog a replacement behavior. This means that we train the dog to do what we WANT them to do instead of what we DON’T WANT. The entire philosophy is based on the idea of choice based dog training. Choice based dog training is about teaching dogs how to make their own choices and is by far the kindest and most effective way to change unwanted dog behaviors. It empowers dogs and helps them feel confident. All dog training takes time and patience but this method can also be fun and very rewarding!
When your dog is acting up I ask you to think about what you’d RATHER them be doing and start working on that. This will give the both of you something to do together and it will also increase your bond. For example:
Please feel free to reach out to me anytime if you need help. Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant  Does your dog panic when you start to leave the house? Or destroy things while you are away, bark, chew…you name it? You may have a dog with separation anxiety.
There are many ways you can help treat your dog’s issue of separation anxiety. First, think about what they are FEELING. The bottom line…They want to be with you and it makes them anxious when they can’t. It’s important to make the fact that you are leaving them a GOOD thing by changing the way they feel about you leaving. You can help your dog with their separation anxiety by:
Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant  Teaching your dog to go to a mat is a wonderful way for your dog to relax while guests enter and visit your home, at times when you need a break and when you visit public places with your dog.
Mat training is one of the first behaviors I teach when I am working with young or very active dogs. Some dogs don't truly understand how it feels to relax and once they do, they learn to do it instead of other behaviors. We can begin teaching a dog to go to a mat and settle at any age, regardless of breed or activity level. Visit our Videos page for a short intro to this training or, our store to purchase the complete video. Some tips to get you started on training your dog to go to a mat: 1. Select a flat, slip proof mat (a short pile rug or a yoga mat cut to fit your dog's size are great choices). 2. Have some delicious treats on hand. 3. Lay the mat down and reward your dog for showing ANY interest in it. This can be simply walking over to it, sniffing it or stepping on it. 4. Continue to reward your dog for interest in the mat for a few "sessions". 5. Next, stop rewarding for interest and only reward for your dog stepping on the mat. 6. Once your dog enjoys stepping on the mat, only reward for them stepping ALL the way on the mat and so on....until they begin to relax and eventually lay down! Visit our video page to learn more about mat training! Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant  When used properly, a crate can be one of a dog’s favorite places. Because some dogs are destructive, crate training can help keep them from chewing or eating something that is dangerous can save their life. Crate training is also a wonderful tool for potty training. The crate should be your dog’s safe place, where they can go for rest, quiet time and sleep. It should not be used as a punishment.
These instructions are geared for dogs 4 months or older. If you are working with a younger puppy, keep everything very short and simplified. We want to make the crate a positive place to be so we need to build its use up carefully. Step-by-step for Crate Training:
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