I meet a lot of people that say “my dog will only come or stay if I have a treat”. My answer to that is: “You may be using the treats incorrectly!”. For the most part, when you’re training come and stay, the treat should not be present. Treats should be in a pouch, in a closed fist and/or behind your back. It should be about the BEHAVIOR of the dog, not the reward. The reward comes later, as a reinforcer. The only time a treat should be visually present is when you are luring (see notes below for definition of lure) a dog into their first sits, downs and during leash training for heel work. For the sit and down, the treat should be replaced by a hand signal ASAP. Other than that, the dog shouldn’t see your treats on a regular basis. Obviously they know you have them but, if you’re using the treat to get your dog to come or stay, I urge you to change that by surprising them instead. For come you have to ask yourself “What can I do to get my dog to come to me?” This means: Am I EXCITING enough, positive and fun? Or am I simply standing still and saying their name? That’s not very enticing. Move your body, say their name in a happy voice and make coming to you FUN. Mix up your rewards between food, toys, praise and petting (surprise your dog with ALL once in a while).
 
Remember:

• The reinforcer (the treat, toy, praise, petting) comes AFTER the behavior.
• Watch your timing (the MOMENT they get to you reward heavily and taper down as you go)
• Try not to reach for the treat while your dog is coming to you or, while they are in their stay as this will distract them from the behavior. 
• If you are returning to a dog in a stay, wait until you are RIGHT in front of them to offer the treat and say “good stay”.
• Don’t keep reaching for treats all the time and it you have them in your hand, have them behind your back. 
• The dog should be focusing on YOU, what you’re asking,  what you’re working on and the treat comes later. 

Because food is a Primary Reinforcer for dogs training your dog using treats is a very effective way to change behaviors. Some dogs will even train with their dry food (kibble) which can be a great way to utilize their mealtimes for training. You can also try mixing their kibble half-and-half with treats. If you aren't using your dog's meal for training, be sure you deduct the same amount from their next meal so they don't become overweight.

Here are some ways treats are used in training:
 

• As a lure. A “lure” is when we use the treat in our hand to “guide” the dog. This can be useful when teaching a beginning sit and down (so the dog follows the lure to complete the behavior). A lure is also very helpful for beginning leash training to keep the dog by our side while we teach them the cues. We release the lure as the reward when the behavior is complete. When we release it, it them becomes a reinforcer.
• As a reinforcer or “reward” is when we give the dog something for completing what we asked, no matter how small or large the task. We are using a reward to let the dog know we like what they did so it INCREASES the likelihood of the task (behavior) being repeated (hence, we are reinforcing the behavior). One official definition of a reinforcer is: A stimulus, such as a reward, that in operant conditioning maintains or strengthens a desired response.

With all of this being said, it’s important to be aware of WHERE the treat is during the training. If you aren’t using it as a lure (see #1 above), it shouldn’t be in plain sight. 

If you'd like to see the video that goes with this post, you can do so here: ​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ti6ASuZvjTA

I strongly believe in TRAINING a dog to stop pulling on leash rather than relying on a device; be it a collar, harness or other equipment. I do not recommend prong or choke collars, they take away from our connection with our dogs and I believe that training is all about connection.  I would also like to add that it’s important to separate training from walking. If you plan to do an “exercise” walk while training, please don’t. Training shouldn't have any expectations of distance, this will only create frustration for you and your dog.
 
There are several methods you can use to teach your dog to stop pulling on leash. I will cover three here. Personally, I just like a nice, loose leash but some want their dog beside them at times so if that’s you, #3 will be your best choice. I encourage you to try everything and decide what you like.
 
Before you begin remember:
 

• It is IMPOSSIBLE for your dog to “pull on leash” if you follow them. Physically impossible. Every step you take when your dog pulls is rewarding and reinforcing the behavior. So, if you want them to stop pulling, you’ve got to change your behavior so they will too. This will take some time and perseverance.
• If you make a firm commitment to teaching your dog to stop pulling on leash, it will happen. It has to. Every do learns differently so the amount of time it takes will depend on your dog, your timing, your rewards and your commitment.
• Do not plan on “exercise walks” to also be “training time”, I guarantee you will get frustrated. If you can’t train, put your dog in a harness or a different collar and go about your walk. When you train them, use a specific (different) collar or harness, one that will remind BOTH of you that you are “training”.  
• Practice as often as possible.
• Start in a distraction free area (large living room, hallway). After practicing for about a week move to a QUIET outdoor area (backyard or empty parking lot). Once you have it down in a quiet area, move to your regular neighborhood area(s) but be extra patient because your dog will try to go back to their “old ways” when they are in a familiar place.
• Stay strong and patient! You’ve got this.

 
To start leash training. Have some of your dog’s favorite treats ready but please note: Let’s make the reward the WALK, not the treats. We will use the treats to reinforce the dog’s position but they should see or work to the food. Keep them out of sight in a pouch or pocket and only use them as recommended below.
 
When I say “reward” I mean verbal praise AND treats.  This is called “pairing”. The goal is to say the praise while offering the treat so we “load” the praise. This way, we can taper out the treats and the word still has good meaning to the dog going forward.
 
Let’s begin…
 
I use three methods for teaching loose leash walking - I suggest you try all three and choose one to use consistently.
 
1.  Turn around. When your dog pulls on leash say “uh oh’ and turn around. Take a few steps and say “good dog” the MOMENT they are beside you (they will naturally have to get beside you because you just turned around).  Reward them with a treat when you say good dog. Repeat, repeat, repeat. If you are turning around constantly try to walk faster and be SURE you are catching all of the moments your dog is in the right place. You cannot over reward your dog being next to you, let them know how much you like it and they will do more!
 
2.  Back step. When your dog pulls on leash or get further ahead then you want take two to three steps backward (but don’t turn around). Watch your footing, you will be facing forward but moving backwards. Keep the leash anchored and steady against your body so you aren’t using it to pull your dog back. Anchoring it makes the dog have to follow you. When they arrive at you, proceed forward again. Here the walk is the reward. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Reward your dog for all of the steps you take WITHOUT them pulling or being ahead of you.
 
3.  Bring back: When your dog pulls on leash say their name and start walking backwards. Bend over slightly to “lure” them towards you. (You will now be face to face). Once they come all the way to you, turn your body around clockwise (RIGHT) and they will end up in the perfect heel position on your left. Don’t turn RIGHT until they have connected with your (I prefer eye contact but that might be too much for your dog – try it and see). Next, take a step and reward them QUICKLY by saying “good heel” and treat (taper treat later). Feel free to continue feeding treats to keep them there, for several steps for the first week or two. Try holding a treat by your side and “luring” them for a while too (keep them interested but don’t give it to them for several steps). If they go ahead or pull repeat, repeat, repeat. This means you may have to walk backwards for several steps so be sure you have clearance behind you. Every time you turn around, your dog will be in heel position and the more you reward that, the longer they will stay there.
 
Having trouble? Work on building eye contact and name response with your dog, this will come in handy during leash training. If they pull, say “watch me” (once trained) or their name to get their attention and to stop pulling.
 
Have fun and use loads of happy, verbal praise and delicious treats at first. Walks should be fun for both of you. This training will be worth it, stick to it and watch your dog start to naturally get into place and try to please you.

It’s normal and necessary for puppies to bite. Sometimes, they bite anything and everything. Teething is serious business and biting feels SO GOOD to a puppy. It’s important that we address biting properly so that your puppy won’t cause harm and also ensure that their need to bite is addressed and satisfied. Many people wonder what to do when a puppy bites. Here are some pointers.

Tips and tricks for biting puppies:

1. When your puppy bites your arms, feet, etc. it’s important to offer them a REPLACEMENT. There is no need to yell, punish or hold their mouth closed (this is NOT an effective way to teach a puppy to stop biting – they NEED to bite) – simply offer them an alternative from the items below.
2. When your puppy bites clothing, shoes, pants, dresses – teach a solid “leave it”. You can begin with a treat and work up to asking them to leave he clothing item (train it first!). I have a some great videos on teaching leave it at www.perfectlypuppy.com.
3. Hand feeding – Hand feeding helps puppies learn to be gentle with our hands. Every chance you get, I recommend you allow your puppy to eat their food from your hand.
4. Take it, drop it, trade – teaching your puppy to take toys and food with permission, drop toys and items on command and trade items will help your puppy become gentle and aware of the appropriate use of their mouth. This will also help to ward off any possible issues with “resource guarding”. Give your puppy more than you take so that they never feel the need to grab or hide items from you.
5. Puzzle feeders – Offer your puppy some mental stimulation when they are in a biting mood. This will help them take their mind off of biting and satisfy their need to use their mouth. Puzzle balls and puzzle feeders are great for times when your puppy is being mouthy.
6. Use the opportunity to teach “bite inhibition” – meaning we train the puppy to not bite TOO hard. This way when they play with other dogs and interacts with their mouth, they have learned to play properly. You can help your puppy have a “soft mouth” by yelping loudly if they bite you too hard. If your puppy stops biting when you do this, reintroduce your hand again to see if they are more gentle the next time. You can say “good gentle” if they are gentle the next time. If they are, great! Let them gently explore your hand again. If they are still too rough, replace your hand with a chew toy from the list below. (It is never appropriate for a puppy to bite our arms, feet, clothing, etc.).

 
Satisfying items for teething puppies:
My preferred toys for teething puppies are small rope toys tied on each end – they are also available in fleece varieties. You can even store them in the freezer which will feel so good for a teething puppy. Plush toys are great for chewing (be sure they don’t eat any pieces. A Kong stuffed with goodies can be frozen as well. Other teething type toys for puppies are available at pet stores and many of them can also be frozen. Having a great VARIETY of toys will always help when you are trying to take the interest away from your puppy biting you and on to a toy instead. You might consider rotating toys or hiding special ones for times when your puppy is really biting. This way the toy is “new” and more interesting and likely to be chosen over an arm or shoe. Please be a partner to your puppy and work to figure our solutions rather than punishing them for normal behavior that they are doing to fill their needs. 

Deciding what to do about puppy biting is important for many reasons. How we handing puppy biting can shape the way they react to us in the future. If your puppy bites, be sure to handle it with patience and love so you don't make it worse.
 
**ALWAYS SUPERVISE YOUR PUPPY WHEN THEY ARE CHEWING ON ANYTHING!**

Keep your dog busy (and out of trouble) this Summer with these great tips:

#1 - Purchase small "kiddie" pool. Fill it with water for the dogs that like it, sand for the those that prefer to dig.

For WATER (skip if your dog loves water and hops right in):

• Begin by putting a very small layer (1/4" deep) of water into the pool.
• toss treats and toys in the pool and let your dog go in on their own time.
• This will get them used to entering the pool and allow them to get used to having wet paws. (Do NOT force or place your dog in the pool, let's help them to make their own decision so we can build confidence too).
• Add toys that float and watch your dog have fun, fun, fun!
• Each day add a little more water.

For SAND (skip step one if your dog already loves sand):

• Fill the pool with a thin layer of sand.
• Bury treats, toys and anything your dog loves to play with.
• Add more sand based on your dog's size and preference.
• Repeat by adding more treats and new, surprise toys as needed.
• Sit back and enjoy the fun! 

#2 - Frozen treats.

• Kongs can be stuffed and frozen for a long lasting, cool treat. Click here for some amazing, delicious recipes. 
• Ice cube trays can be filled with broth, bits of meat, treats, carrots and green beans.
• Buzzfeed has a great article for making all kinds of "pupsicles" here.

#3 - Flirt pole - Flirt poles are a fun way to keep puppies busy. You can use one to tire them out a little before a training session, send the kids outside to play with them and to teach "drop it".

• Make your dog a "flirt pole" by using a long stick, string and a new plush toy.
• Or, buy one on Amazon by clicking here.

​
#4 - Mental Stimulation - too hot for a walk? Try using mental games to wear your dog out.

• Cupcake pan + tennis balls = FUN (make your own puzzle feeder by placing treats in each cupcake hole, cover with a tennis ball and watch your dog figure it out). More details here. 
• Puzzle balls and feeders. Put your dog's meals in a puzzle ball or feeder to add some challenge to their day.
• Recycled egg cartons and berry containers also make great puzzle feeders! (be sure to watch your dog with the egg cartons so they don't eat the cardboard).

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Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant

I understand that leash pulling is one of the most frustrating challenges many of you face. I happen to LOVE teaching it so I am going to try to explain it from my point of view.

It's important to think about WHY you dog is pulling. This can vary many times during a walk. Is it to sniff a bush, get to another dog or to move faster? Once you define the reason, it's easier to figure out the solution.

Let's say there’s a dog across the way and your dog is pulling to meet them. In this case, no matter what your dog is wearing (any type of collar or harness) they will probably STILL PULL. Greeting or reacting to other dogs is one of the main reasons a dog will pull hard on leash. The solution? Teach a really solid "Leave It". This will solve the problem and knowing leave it is an excellent skill for any dog regardless.

Let's say your dog is pulling to sniff a bush - you could use leave it OR, as I would recommend, use it as a reward. So, if I am walking a dog and they start to pull towards something like a bush or plant I will say "let's go", turn around and then make a conscious effort to get the dog back to the bush with a loose leash (even if I have to pick up my pace for a moment) as the reward. If you are consistent with this method your dog will learn that they never get what they want when the pull but they do get it when the leash is loose. 

Sometimes, dogs simply have a faster pace than we do. In this case you can teach "easy" by saying it and rewarding the dog when they slow down and "hurry" by teaching them to step up their pace on command (maybe I should do a video on this!). This way you teach the dog when and where it's necessary for them to slow down but you also speed up for them as a reward too. 
 
If your dog pulls on leash simply to forge ahead, that is simple to teach – stop following them. Stop, wait for them to stop pulling into the leash and only move forward when they take the pressure off. If they pull again, turn around, reward the moment they catch up to your side and continue. The first few walks will be frustrating – if you let them be. Otherwise, breathe and laugh thinking “Oh ya! you are just being a happy dog”. Remember, your dog isn’t pulling to make you mad. They are pulling because they have places to be, people to see and lots of things to sniff (so use all of those things as the reward).

You can also teach heel and release the dog with an “ok” when they can sniff. I prefer loose leash walking personally but some would rather have their dog closer in. I am happy as long as I’m not being pulled so I reward the times the dog is not pulling, stop or turn around when they are and it ALWAYS resolves. Each dog is different so it may take a couple of walks or a few weeks, depending on the rate at which the dog learns, my commitment to the training and the time we put in.

I believe every interaction with a dog should be in the best interest of all involved. I always think about the reasons the dog is "misbehaving" (although to the dog it's not so) and work with that in a way that solves the problem and also supports the dog's well-being.
 
The one thing you will need most of all for this training is patience but once you get the hang of it, you will find it rewarding and fun for both of you. My leash training videos are packed full of tips and tricks to help you and your dog get out and enjoy some great walks together. 

Guest Blog By Nick Burton, Our Best Doggo

Are you the proud parent of a senior pup? Whether you raised your canine companion from his youth or recently adopted an oldie-but-goodie, there are plenty of ways you can ensure your friend’s golden years are wrapped in love, joy, and comfort. Read on for terrific tips to help you and your older dog make every moment count. 
 
Health and Wellness
 
Aging dogs, just like aging people, tend to experience a decline in health. Sometimes, it happens very gradually, and other times it can occur quite suddenly. For example, older dogs frequently experience what is termed vestibular disease. This issue can quickly impair your dog’s balance, leaving him staggering and disoriented. Sometimes, dogs recover, but other times the effects linger for the rest of your dog’s life.
 
Another common concern is dementia. Your dog might experience symptoms like losing track of where he is in familiar places or more anxiety than in the past, or he might not interact with other pets or people as much as before. There are supplements and behavioral therapies that can help support senior dogs experiencing cognitive issues like dementia, so it’s important to talk with your vet if you suspect your older pup is showing symptoms. 
 
These are just a few of the health issues that can affect older dogs. Your veterinarian can diagnose problems as they come along, and will often notice changes in routine exams. With that in mind, it’s important to schedule visits with your vet at least twice a year. The Grey Muzzle Organization explains senior dog exams might include things like diagnostic blood work, vaccines, and dental checks. 
 
Senior-Friendly Equipment Ideas
 
Beyond veterinary and medical care, how you support your dog during his golden years can extend into everyday life, such as when your dog has mobility concerns. Equipment can make all the difference in allowing your dog to continue enjoying an active role in family life. For instance, dogs with severe mobility concerns might need a wheelchair. These devices are typically designed to fit your dog’s size and can assist front, back, or both sets of legs.
 
More commonly, dogs with arthritis use dog ramps or steps to climb onto furniture, laps, or into cars. Pet Life Today notes these helpful pieces of equipment come in lightweight, portable options, as well as more substantial styles to leave in place. Just be sure to examine the size and design to match it to your dog’s needs and the space where it will be used.
 
Another concern parents of senior pups experience is how to lift Fido without hurting him. Even if he is normally a floor type of guy, you might need to help him get in and out of the car or up and down steps if he becomes ill or injured. There are lifting harnesses you can purchase to keep on hand, or you can DIY a lifter from a shopping tote in a pinch. Just cut off the two narrow ends and loop the handled sections under your pup’s belly so it supports him fully.
 
Supplements and So Forth
 
One of the many ways dog owners can help their furry friends is with supportive supplements. As VetStreet explains, many of the vitamins, minerals, and other supplements available for senior dogs are potentially helpful, such as probiotics, fatty acids, and glucosamine with chondroitin sulfate. Before you add something to your dog’s health regimen, check in with your vet to ensure the supplement won’t interfere with other therapies. 
 
As the proud parent of a senior pup, ensuring your friend’s health and happiness is a top priority. Make sure your dog is getting his medical needs met, check into assistive equipment, and think about supplements that could give him a boost. With your thoughtful choices, your beloved companion will enjoy the love, joy, and comfort he so deserves.

Teaching a dog to come when called requires a good connection between the dog and the human. If your dog is not trained to sit, lay down or stay, I highly recommend you start on those first. Come is more advanced and works best if you have formed a bond through positive reinforcement training ahead of time. 
 
NEVER say the word “come” unless you are 100% sure your dog will succeed. You must train them in a controlled environment, building up to distractions and relishing in all success. If you find yourself saying the command regularly and your dog ignores you, you have basically “ruined” the word and should start with a new one (we recommend “Here”).  During training, do not use the word until you have your dog’s attention and are working on it.
 
For the purpose of this blog, I will assume you have not ruined the command and use “Come”.

1. Start INDOORS with no distractions, just you and your dog. 
2. Have a high value reward ready (this depends on what your dog likes most: maybe it’s cooked chicken or a new squeaky toy). 
3. Always have your dog on a leash. 
4. Say your dog’s name then the word “come”. Be sure to use a happy voice and only say it ONE time, clearly. Reward your dog when they come to you with chicken, a quick play session or whatever they love best. NOTE: if your dog ignores you, you may need to be more animated. Use the leash ONLY if your dog ignores you and you need a little help getting them to move towards you. Do NOT pull your dog on leash to come to you. Only nudge with the leash if they are ignoring you and move backwards with them to get them going. Skip rewarding if your dog did not come to you on their own. Start over and reward when they come when asked.
5. Repeat, repeat, repeat. If your dog starts getting bored consider if you are being happy and exciting. Pat your thighs, jump up and down, whatever you need to do to get your dog excited about what you need them to do. If not, they may need a break.
6. Increase your distance as they succeed by working in your hallway or longer area indoors (if possible).
7. When they are 100% successful indoors, move outside to a quiet parking lot or backyard – continue to use the lead to ENSURE success and safety. If your dog is not 100% listening at this point you need to step back.
8. Practice this until your dog is consistent. 
9. NEVER trust your dog off leash if they are not reliable with coming when called. 

GAME: Here’s a fun game to play with your dog to reinforce Come. Gather a handful of your dog’s regular kibble. Also gather a small handful of cooked chicken, hot dog or cheese (tiny pieces). Have them together in a bowl. Toss a piece of kibble for your dog. As soon as they return to you give them a piece of the higher value (chicken, hot dog, cheese). This will teach your dog that coming to you is WAY better than leaving. This is a fun game you can play anytime. As your dog is more reliable you can add in the words “good Come!” while they are running back to you. This will help them understand what “Come” means.
 
Tips:
Being positive and having exceptional rewards will help your dog to learn and understand that coming to you is wonderful! You want your dog to always feel great about coming when called.
NEVER punish your dog after calling them to come to you, even if you are mad. This will damage the command and the last thing you want is a dog that refuses to come when called because they are afraid of the consequence.

​I am a big believer in hands-free use when it comes to dogs. The hands-free feature is no doubt convenient and there are many different styles on the market (including ours) that have wonderful reviews and experiences behind them. I have walked and trained dogs this way for years, and find it very beneficial. In this blog, I want to discuss the pros and cons of using a hands-free belt when training, walking, hiking, or jogging with your dog(s). I also want to address some safety concerns.

Hands-free eliminates the urge to jerk on the leash (which I wholeheartedly support), allows the handler to relax both physically and on leash tension, greatly reduces the pressure on the handlers shoulders and back, and frees up our hands for offering rewards, picking up waste, petting our dogs, etc. Having your dog or puppy attached to you is also a great way to work on potty training (which we will cover that in detail in one of our upcoming videos). There are many great reasons to consider hands-free!

There has been some debate about the safety of this feature. I understand and completely appreciate this and there are certainly precautions and common sense the MUST be used to avoid problems. Some say that if the dog is attached and pulls hard or quickly, there is a chance you can be pulled off of your feet and possibly even sustain an injury to your back. My personal experience does not support this. I have had major shoulder injuries with hand-held leashes from dogs pulling suddenly, but to date, have not experienced any shoulder or back problems from using hands-free. It seems, for me, that my hips are better able to absorb impact than my arms and shoulders. Also, I am very careful and use common sense anytime I am working with or walking a dog hands-free. I am in no way indicating that it is impossible to become injured if a dog lunges while using hands-free, I am just offering my experience and urging the use of common sense.

If your dog is large and/or very strong, lunges, or pulls hard, I would not recommend using a hands-free system. I also wouldn't recommend walking a dog at all if it is pulling or reacting to that degree. Injury is quite possible with these types of dog behaviors, no matter what you are using to walk them. Use our training methods to work with the dog first to eliminate this behavior prior to considering the hands-free feature. That way, you can enjoy your walks and eliminate the risk of injury of any kind whether it be from using a basic leash or hands-free belt. Lunging and pulling dogs present a risk no matter what method you are using.

If you have a dog that is small or a larger dog that is trained to not pull hard or lunge quickly and want to enjoy the hands-free experience, here are my recommendations:

• Always wear hands-free belts at the hip, not around the waist.
• Be prepared for distractions; squirrels, cats, other dogs, etc.
• Be alert and aware of your surroundings. No cell phones!
• Choose an adjustable leash. This will help reduce any trip hazard, as you can suit it to your dogs height and your stride. A shorter leash is safer.
• Keep one hand resting on the top of the leash at all times if you are unsure of your dog's reactions for any reason.
• Practice how to quickly remove the dog and/or belt before use. The quickest way is to unbuckle the entire belt at the waist and simply hold on to the belt with the leash and dog attached. Or, if you are using our system, you can un-clip the leash from the d-ring on the belt which leaves you with the leash attached to the dog. 
• Relax your shoulders and back and enjoy the walk!

Remember that hands-free is a wonderful way to enjoy walks, hiking and jogging with your trained dog but precautions and common sense must be used to ensure safety. 

​Barking is a natural behavior for dogs, for some breeds more than others. However, barking can be quite irritating. Below are some training tips and information that will help you to teach your dog to be a bit more “quiet”.

It’s important to remember that anytime your dog is doing something that is undesirable, you should offer them a “replacement” behavior. In this article we will be teaching you how to replace your dog’s barking with being quiet.

Equally important is to NEVER use a command (in this case quiet) unless you are sure your dog knows the meaning and will successfully complete the request. This takes time and patience but, I assure you, it’s worth it.

I will use the example of a Max, the German Shephard, barking in his backyard. I also have a corresponding video showing this training.

Max is a “barker”. He listens intently and barks at the noises of other dogs, squirrels, people, etc. Max lives near a busy dog park so this increases his barking behavior. This can be challenging for his family. He also has a habit of barking as soon as they let him out in the morning. He has no care of what time it is and this is disruptive to his neighbors.

To help Max:
I would advise that they take Max out on leash so they have more control over the situation. I would also recommend that Max’s family have treats (his morning kibble may be used in lieu of treats if this interests him). Then, when Max goes outside quietly, he should be rewarded with a treat paired with the verbal cue of “good quiet”. NOTE: You really can’t reward “quiet” too much in the beginning. The best time to reward Max is when he is relaxed, outback and being quiet. Max should be watched closely for any sign of “interest” in something he might bark at. As soon as Max shows interest (head turning in the direction of the noise, ears perking up, eyes widening, face tensing) he should be redirected. Redirection can be done by making a sound, tossing a ball or a treat. Then, before he has a chance to refocus on the sound, a “good quiet” paired with a treat would be in order. This should continue while he is outside and doing his business. This would need to be repeated many, many times before they could actually ask him to be “quiet” while barking. It takes time for a dog to understand the meaning of a word and it’s important to allow them enough time before expecting them to comply.

In the meantime….while they are working with Max and before he really knows what quiet means, I would recommend that if he does bark one or two times they ignore it for now but if he goes into a surge of barking and carrying on, they should immediately take him inside for a short break and start over, being observant to catch it before it gets going. It would be ok to distract Max after a bark or two but important not to REWARD him in order to distract him because they would then be rewarding the bark.

IMPORTANT: The moment after a dog exhibits any behavior is the PRIME time to reinforce that behavior. If you offer a reward after your dog barks you will be training them to bark more. A good rule of thumb it to reward what you want more of and ignore what you don’t want. Rewards are essential to dog training and can be tapered down once your dog understands and is doing well.

Punishing a dog for barking makes no sense to them, they are simply being a dog and doing what a dog is naturally meant to do. We need to teach them what we want instead of demanding they simply stop doing doggy stuff.

Check out our video section to see the video that pairs with this post and for more helpful tools and training techniques. 
 

The best way to solve undesirable dog behavior is by teaching the dog a replacement behavior. This means that we train the dog to do what we WANT them to do instead of what we DON’T WANT. The entire philosophy is based on the idea of choice based dog training. Choice based dog training is about teaching dogs how to make their own choices and is by far the kindest and most effective way to change unwanted dog behaviors. It empowers dogs and helps them feel confident. All dog training takes time and patience but this method can also be fun and very rewarding! 
 
When your dog is acting up I ask you to think about what you’d RATHER them be doing and start working on that. This will give the both of you something to do together and it will also increase your bond. 
 
For example:

1. Jumping – your dog jumps on EVERYONE! Perhaps you’ve tried yelling, turning your back on them, crossing your arms, ignoring them, maybe even a knee to the chest (sad but true that some recommend this!) but they still jump. It’s time to teach them to sit, stand or go to a mat instead (we have a free video on Jumping in our videos section).
2. Barking – your dog barks at everything and you’ve had it. I recommend teaching “Thank You” which allows the dog to bark a few times then quiet down or, “Quiet” which teaches the dog to stop barking or not bark in the first place). I will be posting this free video this month.
3. Chewing/Biting – If your dog bites your hands or grabs your shoe and runs off teach them “leave it” or “drop it”.  I would also recommend you offer them an alternative such as a chew toy or a stuffed Kong - in case your dog simply needs to chew or bite on something. Chewing is a very normal and satisfying need for a dog. If they are chewing on things they shouldn’t be, it’s up to us keep valuable things out of their reach and to offer them alternatives that will satisfy this need. It’s important to allow your dog to make good choices and Leave It/Drop It are both great alternatives to destructive behavior. (Leave it is included in our Basic Manners training video). If they are trashing the house while you are away, you may consider crate training.
4. Your dog pulls on leash. You’ve tried pulling back on the leash, “correcting them”, maybe a prong or choke collar (ouch!), or even a front clip harness but the STILL PULL. It’s time to teach them how to walk nicely on leash without relying on a “tool”. Let’s change the behavior from pulling on leash to NOT pulling. You can teach loose leash walking, heel or both. Both of these are guaranteed to work if you follow a training plan. Leash training is an important skill and I highly recommend it. (We offer a very affordable video on teaching loose leash walking. Click here to learn more).
5. Leash Reactivity – Your dog barks and lunges on leash when they see another dog. There are a few things you can do for this but, one of my favorites is “Where’s the doggy”. This is a game that teaches your dog to look at YOU when they see another dog instead of acting crazy. You can also teach “Watch Me” and ask your dog to do this instead.

It is always my goal to provide free dog advice and affordable training to help ensure that NO dog is ever surrendered to a shelter because of behavior problems and/or their humans didn’t have access to the tools needed to solve problems. 
 
Please feel free to reach out to me anytime if you need help.