With vaccinations rolling out by the millions many of us may start leaving the house for longer periods of time or, even planning a wonderful vacation (can you imagine?). However, this brings up a serious subject  - Separation Anxiety in dogs! While am delighted that so many people have brought new dogs into their homes during the pandemic, I also understand that some of these dogs haven't really had to be alone much. This may come as a BIG surprise to all when the time comes. Helping your dog with separation anxiety before it starts is the best approach. Or, if you have a dog with separation anxiety, here are some tips to help. 

Before you leave your dog consider:

1. Crate/Pen training: If your dog is young or untrustworthy when left unattended (not fully house trained, destructive, anxious) you should consider implementing a crate or pen training program for them. Crate training is a great way to keep your puppy or adult safe from harm. Crate training can also help with the potty training process BUT they need to be conditioned to stay in a crate (or pen) first in order to avoid or treat Separation Anxiety. I have provided two crate training links below to give you some ideas on how to start and complete the process of crate training.
NOTE: Separation Anxiety can be complex and the term is general - if your dog already has it, please seek the help of a Positive Reinforcement or Force Free trainer before attempting crate training. Confinement training is not for every dog and it's important to understand (and honor) those dogs that do not fair well in confinement. 

2. Desensitize your dog to "triggers". Your dog will find that the tasks of you putting on your shoes or jacket or grabbing your keys or purse signals you are leaving the house. Over time, these tasks could become "triggers" to your dog. For some dogs these triggers don't mean much but to others it could begin a stressful sequence. I recommend you take a few moments each day to practice these tasks without actually leaving the house. Next, leave and come back quickly (grab your keys or purse to take out the trash for example). Find ways to practice desensitizing your dog to the tasks that normally mean you are leaving the house for some time. (This will not necessarily solve a true separation anxiety problem, but there is certainly benefits to being proactive). Any time we can take a few moments to work on something before it's an issue is time well spent. 

3. Music/Television. If you do need to leave, start putting on some music or television for your dog (again, try not to turn this into a "trigger" by also doing these things when you aren't leaving or a few minutes before you actually leave). Sound helps to break up the silence of your absence.

4. Keep your comings and goings boring. It's fine to say goodbye to your dog but don't make a big deal of it. When you come back home, keep it BORING. Keep your excitement inside and greet your dog casually. We want our dogs to feel safe and calm when we come and go, they are already excited so it's best not to add to it. 

4. Puzzle feeder/Kong. It's often advised to leave your dog with a food feeder to keep them busy when you leave. This may work well for some dogs and that is great, but, for others it can begin to represent time alone and they may not touch it. Start offering your dog such things now, have them enjoy it in your presence and try leaving the room momentarily to see if they continue eating or stop to look for you. This can be a subtle indicator of trouble to come (but don't panic, it doesn't mean you will have a big problem). Although there are some dogs that simply don't eat unless their human is around but they don't have separation anxiety so it's best to be understand and be aware of our own dog's preferences. 

5. Video. Setting up a video (or old phone) can help you to see how your dog feels when you leave. Do they pace? whine? stare out the window? scratch at the door? It's a good idea to find out how your dog feels when you leave. A video camera will help you to check to see how long the reactions are so you can work backwards from the time they remained comfortable. I like this one from Amazon. It's affordable, has two way audio and you can rotate it from your phone to see where your dog is in the room! Video camera for pets:
 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P76BWYN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Here are some FREE crate (or confinement) training videos and tips to help you transition your dog to spending time alone. You can apply the same methods to leaving your dog in a room, a pen or in general, alone in the house. 

Video One (first steps): https://vimeo.com/466376781/132b8363c9
Video Two (extended crate time): https://vimeo.com/466376720/7b5f074444

Do:

1. Train your dog to go in and out of the crate with the door OFF to start. 
2. Stay quiet and avoid eye contact when your dog is in their crate (eye contact and talking might distract and/or excite them and cause them to want out). When we want our dogs to be calm, we have to be calm and quiet also.
3. Provide food toys IF they are relaxed and able to eat. If they aren't they may be too stressed and you will have to take a step back (without food) and work more slowly.
4. Take the process slowly, it's not something that should be rushed. If you can't take time to crate train, it's best not to use it for the time being. 
5. Celebrate small victories! Sometimes even 5 minutes is a great start.

Don't:

1. Have any expectations - every dog transitions in their own time.
2. Rush this process! Try to build up on time progressively.
3. Make a big deal when you leave or come home. Make the fact of you leaving the house (and returning) as boring as can be. Try not to say much when you leave (a simple goodbye will do) and don't come home and use an excited voice when you return. 
4. Sneak out. Avoid sneaking away, it could create additional fear in your dog.
5. Leave your dog for longer than they can handle.
6. Overuse confinement - it's for management. If you must leave your dog for extended periods of time please consider having a family member or dog walker come and walk or play with them.

It's important to learn how your dog feels about you leaving - even if it's just the room. If their reaction is subtle, practice leaving in very short bursts of time, only building up when your dog is comfortable. If it's extreme start proactive training now!

I meet a lot of people that say “my dog will only come or stay if I have a treat”. My answer to that is: “You may be using the treats incorrectly!”. For the most part, when you’re training come and stay, the treat should not be present. Treats should be in a pouch, in a closed fist and/or behind your back. It should be about the BEHAVIOR of the dog, not the reward. The reward comes later, as a reinforcer. The only time a treat should be visually present is when you are luring (see notes below for definition of lure) a dog into their first sits, downs and during leash training for heel work. For the sit and down, the treat should be replaced by a hand signal ASAP. Other than that, the dog shouldn’t see your treats on a regular basis. Obviously they know you have them but, if you’re using the treat to get your dog to come or stay, I urge you to change that by surprising them instead. For come you have to ask yourself “What can I do to get my dog to come to me?” This means: Am I EXCITING enough, positive and fun? Or am I simply standing still and saying their name? That’s not very enticing. Move your body, say their name in a happy voice and make coming to you FUN. Mix up your rewards between food, toys, praise and petting (surprise your dog with ALL once in a while).
 
Remember:

• The reinforcer (the treat, toy, praise, petting) comes AFTER the behavior.
• Watch your timing (the MOMENT they get to you reward heavily and taper down as you go)
• Try not to reach for the treat while your dog is coming to you or, while they are in their stay as this will distract them from the behavior. 
• If you are returning to a dog in a stay, wait until you are RIGHT in front of them to offer the treat and say “good stay”.
• Don’t keep reaching for treats all the time and it you have them in your hand, have them behind your back. 
• The dog should be focusing on YOU, what you’re asking,  what you’re working on and the treat comes later. 

Because food is a Primary Reinforcer for dogs training your dog using treats is a very effective way to change behaviors. Some dogs will even train with their dry food (kibble) which can be a great way to utilize their mealtimes for training. You can also try mixing their kibble half-and-half with treats. If you aren't using your dog's meal for training, be sure you deduct the same amount from their next meal so they don't become overweight.

Here are some ways treats are used in training:
 

• As a lure. A “lure” is when we use the treat in our hand to “guide” the dog. This can be useful when teaching a beginning sit and down (so the dog follows the lure to complete the behavior). A lure is also very helpful for beginning leash training to keep the dog by our side while we teach them the cues. We release the lure as the reward when the behavior is complete. When we release it, it them becomes a reinforcer.
• As a reinforcer or “reward” is when we give the dog something for completing what we asked, no matter how small or large the task. We are using a reward to let the dog know we like what they did so it INCREASES the likelihood of the task (behavior) being repeated (hence, we are reinforcing the behavior). One official definition of a reinforcer is: A stimulus, such as a reward, that in operant conditioning maintains or strengthens a desired response.

With all of this being said, it’s important to be aware of WHERE the treat is during the training. If you aren’t using it as a lure (see #1 above), it shouldn’t be in plain sight. 

If you'd like to see the video that goes with this post, you can do so here: ​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ti6ASuZvjTA

Guest Blog By Nick Burton, Our Best Doggo

Are you the proud parent of a senior pup? Whether you raised your canine companion from his youth or recently adopted an oldie-but-goodie, there are plenty of ways you can ensure your friend’s golden years are wrapped in love, joy, and comfort. Read on for terrific tips to help you and your older dog make every moment count. 
 
Health and Wellness
 
Aging dogs, just like aging people, tend to experience a decline in health. Sometimes, it happens very gradually, and other times it can occur quite suddenly. For example, older dogs frequently experience what is termed vestibular disease. This issue can quickly impair your dog’s balance, leaving him staggering and disoriented. Sometimes, dogs recover, but other times the effects linger for the rest of your dog’s life.
 
Another common concern is dementia. Your dog might experience symptoms like losing track of where he is in familiar places or more anxiety than in the past, or he might not interact with other pets or people as much as before. There are supplements and behavioral therapies that can help support senior dogs experiencing cognitive issues like dementia, so it’s important to talk with your vet if you suspect your older pup is showing symptoms. 
 
These are just a few of the health issues that can affect older dogs. Your veterinarian can diagnose problems as they come along, and will often notice changes in routine exams. With that in mind, it’s important to schedule visits with your vet at least twice a year. The Grey Muzzle Organization explains senior dog exams might include things like diagnostic blood work, vaccines, and dental checks. 
 
Senior-Friendly Equipment Ideas
 
Beyond veterinary and medical care, how you support your dog during his golden years can extend into everyday life, such as when your dog has mobility concerns. Equipment can make all the difference in allowing your dog to continue enjoying an active role in family life. For instance, dogs with severe mobility concerns might need a wheelchair. These devices are typically designed to fit your dog’s size and can assist front, back, or both sets of legs.
 
More commonly, dogs with arthritis use dog ramps or steps to climb onto furniture, laps, or into cars. Pet Life Today notes these helpful pieces of equipment come in lightweight, portable options, as well as more substantial styles to leave in place. Just be sure to examine the size and design to match it to your dog’s needs and the space where it will be used.
 
Another concern parents of senior pups experience is how to lift Fido without hurting him. Even if he is normally a floor type of guy, you might need to help him get in and out of the car or up and down steps if he becomes ill or injured. There are lifting harnesses you can purchase to keep on hand, or you can DIY a lifter from a shopping tote in a pinch. Just cut off the two narrow ends and loop the handled sections under your pup’s belly so it supports him fully.
 
Supplements and So Forth
 
One of the many ways dog owners can help their furry friends is with supportive supplements. As VetStreet explains, many of the vitamins, minerals, and other supplements available for senior dogs are potentially helpful, such as probiotics, fatty acids, and glucosamine with chondroitin sulfate. Before you add something to your dog’s health regimen, check in with your vet to ensure the supplement won’t interfere with other therapies. 
 
As the proud parent of a senior pup, ensuring your friend’s health and happiness is a top priority. Make sure your dog is getting his medical needs met, check into assistive equipment, and think about supplements that could give him a boost. With your thoughtful choices, your beloved companion will enjoy the love, joy, and comfort he so deserves.

​Barking is a natural behavior for dogs, for some breeds more than others. However, barking can be quite irritating. Below are some training tips and information that will help you to teach your dog to be a bit more “quiet”.

It’s important to remember that anytime your dog is doing something that is undesirable, you should offer them a “replacement” behavior. In this article we will be teaching you how to replace your dog’s barking with being quiet.

Equally important is to NEVER use a command (in this case quiet) unless you are sure your dog knows the meaning and will successfully complete the request. This takes time and patience but, I assure you, it’s worth it.

I will use the example of a Max, the German Shephard, barking in his backyard. I also have a corresponding video showing this training.

Max is a “barker”. He listens intently and barks at the noises of other dogs, squirrels, people, etc. Max lives near a busy dog park so this increases his barking behavior. This can be challenging for his family. He also has a habit of barking as soon as they let him out in the morning. He has no care of what time it is and this is disruptive to his neighbors.

To help Max:
I would advise that they take Max out on leash so they have more control over the situation. I would also recommend that Max’s family have treats (his morning kibble may be used in lieu of treats if this interests him). Then, when Max goes outside quietly, he should be rewarded with a treat paired with the verbal cue of “good quiet”. NOTE: You really can’t reward “quiet” too much in the beginning. The best time to reward Max is when he is relaxed, outback and being quiet. Max should be watched closely for any sign of “interest” in something he might bark at. As soon as Max shows interest (head turning in the direction of the noise, ears perking up, eyes widening, face tensing) he should be redirected. Redirection can be done by making a sound, tossing a ball or a treat. Then, before he has a chance to refocus on the sound, a “good quiet” paired with a treat would be in order. This should continue while he is outside and doing his business. This would need to be repeated many, many times before they could actually ask him to be “quiet” while barking. It takes time for a dog to understand the meaning of a word and it’s important to allow them enough time before expecting them to comply.

In the meantime….while they are working with Max and before he really knows what quiet means, I would recommend that if he does bark one or two times they ignore it for now but if he goes into a surge of barking and carrying on, they should immediately take him inside for a short break and start over, being observant to catch it before it gets going. It would be ok to distract Max after a bark or two but important not to REWARD him in order to distract him because they would then be rewarding the bark.

IMPORTANT: The moment after a dog exhibits any behavior is the PRIME time to reinforce that behavior. If you offer a reward after your dog barks you will be training them to bark more. A good rule of thumb it to reward what you want more of and ignore what you don’t want. Rewards are essential to dog training and can be tapered down once your dog understands and is doing well.

Punishing a dog for barking makes no sense to them, they are simply being a dog and doing what a dog is naturally meant to do. We need to teach them what we want instead of demanding they simply stop doing doggy stuff.

Check out our video section to see the video that pairs with this post and for more helpful tools and training techniques. 
 

The best way to solve undesirable dog behavior is by teaching the dog a replacement behavior. This means that we train the dog to do what we WANT them to do instead of what we DON’T WANT. The entire philosophy is based on the idea of choice based dog training. Choice based dog training is about teaching dogs how to make their own choices and is by far the kindest and most effective way to change unwanted dog behaviors. It empowers dogs and helps them feel confident. All dog training takes time and patience but this method can also be fun and very rewarding! 
 
When your dog is acting up I ask you to think about what you’d RATHER them be doing and start working on that. This will give the both of you something to do together and it will also increase your bond. 
 
For example:

1. Jumping – your dog jumps on EVERYONE! Perhaps you’ve tried yelling, turning your back on them, crossing your arms, ignoring them, maybe even a knee to the chest (sad but true that some recommend this!) but they still jump. It’s time to teach them to sit, stand or go to a mat instead (we have a free video on Jumping in our videos section).
2. Barking – your dog barks at everything and you’ve had it. I recommend teaching “Thank You” which allows the dog to bark a few times then quiet down or, “Quiet” which teaches the dog to stop barking or not bark in the first place). I will be posting this free video this month.
3. Chewing/Biting – If your dog bites your hands or grabs your shoe and runs off teach them “leave it” or “drop it”.  I would also recommend you offer them an alternative such as a chew toy or a stuffed Kong - in case your dog simply needs to chew or bite on something. Chewing is a very normal and satisfying need for a dog. If they are chewing on things they shouldn’t be, it’s up to us keep valuable things out of their reach and to offer them alternatives that will satisfy this need. It’s important to allow your dog to make good choices and Leave It/Drop It are both great alternatives to destructive behavior. (Leave it is included in our Basic Manners training video). If they are trashing the house while you are away, you may consider crate training.
4. Your dog pulls on leash. You’ve tried pulling back on the leash, “correcting them”, maybe a prong or choke collar (ouch!), or even a front clip harness but the STILL PULL. It’s time to teach them how to walk nicely on leash without relying on a “tool”. Let’s change the behavior from pulling on leash to NOT pulling. You can teach loose leash walking, heel or both. Both of these are guaranteed to work if you follow a training plan. Leash training is an important skill and I highly recommend it. (We offer a very affordable video on teaching loose leash walking. Click here to learn more).
5. Leash Reactivity – Your dog barks and lunges on leash when they see another dog. There are a few things you can do for this but, one of my favorites is “Where’s the doggy”. This is a game that teaches your dog to look at YOU when they see another dog instead of acting crazy. You can also teach “Watch Me” and ask your dog to do this instead.

It is always my goal to provide free dog advice and affordable training to help ensure that NO dog is ever surrendered to a shelter because of behavior problems and/or their humans didn’t have access to the tools needed to solve problems. 
 
Please feel free to reach out to me anytime if you need help.