Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant

I get it, dog training may not be your favorite hobby or pastime. It can be frustrating and time consuming. Especially when you are using dog training methods that you don't understand or feel good about. If you don't have confidence in your training skills or your dog's ability, they will know. But, I assure you that when you understand how to train your dog properly, everything changes and the time and effort is well worth it. Not to mention, it won't feel like work! The only real requirement is patience - for your dog and yourself.

There are so many benefits to training your dog and it doesn't have to feel like a huge undertaking. Keep in mind, that every time you are with your dog is an opportunity to train them. If you look at it with a positive mindset and, make it fun and rewarding, it will feel much less like a task and more like a time to bond and learn with your dog. It's a partnership and just like any relationship, needs commitment and nurturing.

There are MANY methods people us to train dogs. I choose and (highly recommend) using positive reinforcement dog training for several reasons. Mainly, it is based on how dogs LEARN, not by forcing them to perform like a circus animal. I can teach a dog anything by simply rewarding them for doing what right and either ignoring or removing them if they are being "naughty". Timing is crucial but all things are possible with this method of dog training. I rarely correct a dog's behavior - it's much more powerful to teach them instead of simply demanding they stop doing something. I may interrupt a dog's barking so that I can help them learn it is undesirable but I don't punish them for doing something that is a natural dog behavior. 

I would never recommend using an e-collar (shock collar with a new name) because this gives the trainer more power than they deserve. It takes away from the learning process and starts a "I'm the boss and you need to do what I say" mentality. Dogs deserve better than being shocked and I have yet to work with a dog that did not respond to positive reinforcement training so I am rightfully set in my ways. I can't help but think "if you can train a dog without harm, why wouldn't you"?

Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant

If you want to teach your dog to come when called to you reliably, read this post…
 
So many people say "My dog never comes when called". Teaching a dog to come when called requires a really good connection between the dog and the human. If your dog is NOT trained to sit, lay down or stay, I highly recommend you start on those before working on teaching your dog the Come command. Come is more a more advanced dog training command and works best if you have formed a bond through positive reinforcement training first. If you have successfully trained your dog in basic manners teaching come will be much easier.
 
NEVER say the word “come” unless you are 100% sure your dog will succeed. You must train them in a controlled environment, building up to distractions and relishing in all success. If you find yourself saying the command regularly and your dog ignores you, you have basically “ruined” the word and should start with a new one (we recommend “Here”).  During training, do not use the word until you have your dog’s attention and they are secure on a leash/lead.
 
For the purpose of this blog, I will assume you have not ruined the command and use “Come”.

Here are the steps I would recommend for training your dog to come when called:

1. Start INDOORS with no distractions, just you and your dog. 
2. Have a high value reward ready (this depends on what your dog likes most: maybe it’s cooked chicken or a new squeaky toy?). 
3. Always have your dog on a leash. 
4. Say your dog’s name then the word “come”. Be sure to use a happy voice and only say it ONE time, clearly. Reward your dog when they come to you (with chicken, a quick play session or whatever they love best). NOTE: if your dog ignores you, you may need to be more animated. Use the leash ONLY if your dog ignores you and you need a little help getting them to move towards you. Do NOT pull your dog on leash to come to you. Only nudge with the leash if they are ignoring you and move backwards at the same time with them to get them going. Skip rewarding if your dog did not come to you on their own when asked, simply start again and .  reward when they come when asked.
5. Repeat, repeat, repeat. If your dog starts getting bored consider if you are being happy and exciting. Pat your thighs, jump up and down, hunch down playfully, whatever you need to do to get your dog excited about what you need them to do. If not, they may need a break.
6. Increase your distance as they succeed by working in your hallway or longer area indoors (if possible).
7. When they are 100% successful indoors, being your dog training outside in a quiet parking lot or backyard – continue to use the lead to ENSURE success and safety. If your dog is not 100% listening at this point you need to step back.
8. Practice this until your dog is consistent. Move to areas with more distractions and continue training until they are successful in all areas. 
9. NEVER trust your dog off leash if they are not reliable with coming when called. 

Tips: Being positive and having exceptional rewards will help you with your dog training and your dog will learn to come when called and understand that coming to you is wonderful! You want your dog to always feel great about coming when called. NEVER punish your dog after calling them to come to you, even if you are mad. This will damage the command and the last thing you want is a dog that refuses to come when called because they are afraid of the consequence. Happy dog training!

Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant

There are millions of reasons to adopt a dog! I am a strong believer in pet adoption but have several friends that have purchased puppies so I am learning how to understand and accept that not everyone will adopt. But, if I can help persuade someone on the subject I will!

Many times, people choose to purchase a puppy because they don’t want to end up with a “damaged dog”. Adopting a dog does not mean you will have to rehabilitate a dog. Many adoptable dogs are already trained which is a BONUS.  Not to mention, training your newly adopted dog is great way to build your bond.
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As a dog trainer, I can say that the training calls I receive are equal for adopted vs. purchased dogs so you are NOT guaranteed a dog without issues either way. With that being said, I would say please consider adopting a shelter pet!

All unwanted dog behaviors can be changed with proper dog training so this is not a good reason to discount adopting. Raising a puppy can be exhausting, and frustrating and with a shelter dog, if you choose, you can skip that all together (by selecting a dog older than 2 years). Plus, if you are inexperienced when raising your puppy, you can actually create bad habits that will in turn create bad dog behaviors.

Nowadays, dogs in shelters go through extensive temperament testing and, better yet, a dog that is living with a foster is well known and you can be assured they get along with other dogs, cats and even children before adopting them.

Whether you choose to purchase or adopt a puppy, it’s vital that you begin dog training ASAP - starting with basic manners. It's also important to keep them well socialized with other animals and friendly around humans. The moment you notice a problem such as dog or human reactivity, food guarding, or any other unwanted dog behavior, contact a positive reinforcement-based trainer to learn how to nip it in the bud (no pun intended).

Alternatively, if you choose to adopt a dog (YAY!), give them 2 weeks before doing any real training as it takes time for them to settle into their new environment. Once they are comfortable, positive reinforcement training is a wonderful way to bond with your new dog plus teach them to be the dog you want and deserve. As a bonus, you will also feel good about saving a life and I promise you there are some incredible pets at the shelter and local rescue agencies.

There are many reasons why dogs end up in shelters. Many of the reasons have nothing to do with dog behavior problems. 

Looking for a certain breed? Simply Google that breed followed by the word "rescue" and you are sure to find something. Need help? Let me know!

“The following is based on my own experience and education. I choose to train dogs from a place of kindness and understanding, above all else. While I understand other training methods are in use and can be effective, I believe in training the whole dog – body, mind and spirit. This ensures there are no “side effects” such as suppressed feelings, fear or an increase in problematic behaviors. This process is about change, which takes time, and is by far the most healthy form of training I know of and this is what I believe in. I encourage you to take the time to learn about your dog and enjoy the process.”
 
Leash reactivity is a common issue and it’s important to look at this problem from the dog’s point of view in order to treat it or, better yet, ensure it never begins. If you are looking for help to teach your dog to stop reacting to other dogs, people or even children while on leash, you can use the same method described below but do note that you should not approach another dog, person or child until you are 100% sure it is safe to do so. This article addresses leash reactivity, not leash aggression. If your dog is NOT aggressive off leash but turns into a nut on leash, this is the article for you. If your dog is aggressive on and off leash, please start with your veterinarian and consider consulting a behaviorist and a reputable positive reinforcement or force-free dog trainer. Aggression needs to be treated carefully, by the right people, to ensure it does not get worse. I will discuss reactivity in this article.

When working with people to teach their dogs to stop pulling on leash, one question that comes up a lot is whether or not a dog should be in the heel position.

The answer is simply up to you and you also have the option of teaching both. You can teach your dog loose leash walking (or, in other words, not to pull you down the street) and/or you can teach them to walk by your side.

I personally don’t mind if my dog is ahead of me, as long as he’s not pulling. I think the walk is as much for him as it is for me and I want him to be free to sniff and move around. Others prefer their dog be by their side - which would involve teaching the heel command. Either way, I highly encourage you to commit to training your dog, including teaching your dog to stop pulling on leash (and the good news is that you DON’T need a choke, shock or prong collar to do so)!

​Did you know that our DualMax dog collar was specifically designed to help people teach their dogs to stop pulling on leash? It's super comfortable and includes FREE training videos! (It is also included in all of our product training packages).

Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant

I’ve found so many stray dogs over the years! Just the other day, I found another - the little guy in this photo. I would say 50% of the time the dogs I find have no collar and 60% no microchip either. It’s frustrating because it could be very simple. Taking a stray dog to the shelter is traumatizing for them. PLEASE BE SURE YOUR PET HAS ID – Microchipping is best.
 
I’d also like to provide information on what to do if you find a stray and also a bit of discussion regarding whether or not to have your dog microchipped or wear a collar with id tags.
 
If you find a stray:

1. Catch it (if you can and if it is safe to do so).
2. Snap a photo if possible. (This will come in handy if you catch the dog or not).
3. If it has a tag: call the number and hope to get ahold of the owner. If not, leave a message and if you are able to hold onto the pup for a bit that’s the best-case scenario. If not, and you can, drive to a nearby vet to have the dog scanned for a microchip. This will allow for an address search and some vets will hold the dog while they try to reach the owner. Sometimes we have to take the dog to the local animal shelter and this is usually the first place people will check for their lost dog. Some shelters offer you the option of housing the dog while they post pictures and list the dog under lost. There are many options. If you do have to leave the dog at the shelter, they will usually give you a reference number so that you can check back on the dog. You may even have first dibs to adopt if they are not claimed.
4. If the dog does not have a tag: Take it to a nearby vet and they will scan it to check for a chip. Some vets will hold the dog if they are chipped.
5.  5. If you have the dog OR where unable to catch it: Search for and post the found pet on Nextdoor and Facebook (make sure you set the privacy setting to Everyone so it will be sharable. We have a very active group called Fido Alert in our area and pets are reunited daily. A search on Facebook may provide you a great page for lost pets too!  Provide the following: Where you found or saw the dog, the breed and size, the photo (if you have), your contact information and what you have done (if anything). 

If your dog suddenly starts having accidents in the home, it’s important to FIRST rule out any underlying medical issue. Please seek the advice of your veterinarian before considering these tips. 
 
Below are the top five reasons a once house trained dog may soil in the house:

1.    They aren’t getting enough access to outdoors. Ask yourself: Have I been taking my pet outdoors  as often as I used to? For adult dogs, every very few hours, or every 2 for young pups (even less for very young puppies) PLUS 10-20 minutes after meal times? (If they are getting enough access to outdoors, your timing may be off or it may be something else). Be sure you provide plenty of opportunities for your dog to succeed in going outdoors if you want them to reverse this new behavior. It’s important to reverse it as soon as possible!

2.     They are stressed or upset. Have there been recent changes to their environment? Pets are very sensitive to change and sometimes we may not realize how much a small change can affect them. Some things may include: Adding a new pet to your home, having a baby, someone moving in or out, starting a new job that requires you to be away for longer periods of time, a rainy or snowy day, etc. These changes can create stress in pets and they may start doing things that are “out of the norm” in response – which can include soiling in the house. They need extra support during these times (see “3” next).​

When training your dog it's vital to keep in mind that TIMING IS EVERYTHING! Dogs live in the moment so whatever moment you are rewarding the dog will associate that behavior with. If you are training with treats (which is one of the best ways to train a dog), be sure you practice your timing before working with your dog. You can do this by using a coffee cup an learning to quickly place the treats in the cup (set a timer if you want to add some pressure).

If you reward your dog too long after they have completed the desired behavior, they very well may end up learning something completely different than you had intended. I've seen people reward their dog for: coming out of a sit, pulling at the end of the leash, breaking a stay and many other things - due to slow rewarding.  We all make mistakes, but try to keep this in mind when training and, if you make a mistake, repeat correctly several times over to ensure your dog knows what you really want!

​Every time we interact with our pets we can come from a place of understanding (love) or from impatience/anger (fear). In return, we instill the same in them. Do you want your dog to stop jumping on people by using force (knee to the chest) or, by teaching them to sit when asked instead? I can tell you that the knee to the chest might work temporarily by stunning or scaring them (although it will confuse the dog) but it may also create a fear of knees, legs, feet and people. In contrast, asking for a sit teaches your dog impulse control and manners. The choices you make in how you train your dog can have long lasting implications so I urge you to choose carefully. My motto is “Reward the good, ignore the bad”. You will get more of what you reward and less of what you don’t want if you ignore it. If it’s something you can’t ignore, teach your dog what to do instead.

Written by Christine Durrant, Professional Dog Trainer and Pet Care Consultant
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There are differing opinions around the subject of crate training for dogs. Some feel that putting a dog in a "cage" is cruel, while others value the benefits of crate training. I've had dogs that were crate trained and others that were not, and there is no denying that having a crate trained dog is helpful for many reasons, including safety and training.
Using a crate for a puppy or dog can be compared to the use of a crib or playpen for a child. They are used to keep them safe when we can't watch their every move. It's also a great place for some quiet time, a safe sleeping spot and a place of comfort.
Here are some true/false examples to help you to understand the benefits of using crates with dogs:

• A crate offers your dog a quiet, safe place to relax.  True! 
  Because of this, never allow children to play or go into your dog's crate. Keep it special for your dog.
• Putting a dog in a crate is cruel.  False! 
  Using a crate to keep your dog safe while you are away is not cruel, but rather it's a caring way to ensure their well being. Leaving a dog in a crate for extended periods of time or when you are too lazy to "deal with them" is cruel, however. Use the crate in a way that is helpful to them, not as a way to avoid dealing with your dog.
• A crate is an exceptional tool when house training your dog. True! 
  By keeping them in an appropriate sized crate, your dog will not be free to roam around and potty throughout your house and you can better regulate their potty breaks.
• Many dogs feel more relaxed in a crate.  True! 
  For example, I haven't closed the door to my dog's crate in over a year but I will often find him laying in there, napping and enjoying his "space". He also goes into his crate when he is startled by a noise - it's his comfort place.
• A dog must be trained to enjoy the crate.  True! 
  It's very important to take the time to ensure that your dog feels relaxed in their crate BEFORE closing the door and leaving the house. Work with the door open at first and feed them meals and treats in the crate. When you do start to close the door, do it for only a few seconds, then reward. Work up to longer periods of time while you are home. Once your dog is comfortable, you can leave for short periods of time, gradually working up to longer periods. If you go too fast, they may end up associating the crate with you leaving and that is not a good start.
• All dogs need to be crated and/or enjoy being in a crate.  False! 
  I've worked with dogs that have literally destroyed their crates. This could be from severe separation anxiety, stress, fear, etc.. I do not recommend forcing a dog to stay in a crate if they are afraid or excessively destructive in it. Working with a professional to help with the anxiety is key. In the end, they may feel too confined and a small room or gated area may be better for dogs that have an extreme reaction to being confined in a small space. I am specifically referring to dogs that break out of crates or cause damage to them. Some dogs may chew up a bed or toy in the crate, but that is generally due to boredom or not being properly exercised prior to being placed in the crate.

If you have a dog that is destructive to your home, not potty trained or cannot be trusted alone, please consider the use of a crate for their safety and well being!